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Friday, April 21, 2006 - Page updated at 06:26 PM


Information in this article, originally published April 19, 2006, was corrected April 21, 2006. The hours for the kitchen at Feierabend, a German-style tavern in South Lake Union at 422 Yale Ave. N., are 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily; the phone number is 206-340-2528. The spelling of the tavern's name, the phone and the hours were incorrect in a previous version of this story.

Taste of the Town

What's new: Interesting and international

Seattle Times restaurant critic

OK, so we're not New York City, where you can find a world of international eats just about everywhere you look. But we don't do too badly here in Greater Seattle, and things have been steadily getting more interesting.

I'm way overdue for a return trip to Paris, where I became fascinated with an elegant man dressed in a shirt, tie and apron, who spent his days preparing crepes in a busy kiosk on the Rue Cler. Andrew Eigenrauch doesn't wear a tie to work at his petite La Creperie Voilà (707 Pike St., 206-447-2737). And his kiosk under the Convention Center arch lacks the charm of that French market-stall, but one taste of his sweet Parisian-style crepes ($3-$6), and it's April in Paris all over again.

For those who favor savory over sweet, Eigenrauch's Breton-style crepes ($4.25-$6.25) are the way to go. His buckwheat batter yields a crisp-yet-delicate crepe, and when it comes off the griddle stuffed with Prosciutto, Emmental, spinach and béchamel, well — now we're really talking! So how come it took a year for me to get hip to this swell spot? Who knows? But don't you wait any longer to check it out. Hours are 8 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 8 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Fridays, 9 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Saturdays and 9 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Sundays.

Can't get downtown? La Creperie Voilà also has a farmer's market road show. Find them, beginning in May, at Redmond Saturday Market and Ballard Sunday Market. Need a crepe-making caterer for your special event? Eigenrauch is willing to bring his sweet-and-savory road show to you (call for details).

Prost! Lift a bier

at South Lake Union

It wasn't enough that Chris Navarra brought his German-style taverns to Phinney Ridge and Roosevelt. Now he's done it again, in South Lake Union's Cascade neighborhood.

Listen to Leson on KPLU-FM

Nancy Leson, Seattle Times restaurant critic and columnist, offers monthly food commentary on KPLU-FM (88.5). This month she dishes about dining out — alone. Her commentary airs at 6:35 and 8:35 a.m. today on Morning Edition; 4:44 p.m. today on All Things Considered; and 6:34 and 8:34 Sunday on Weekend Edition. Leson's commentaries are archived on KPLU's Web site ( and may also be heard at

Navarra's first effort, Prost! (7311 Greenwood Ave. N., Seattle, 206-706-5430;, opened in 2002. He brought us his second, die BierStube (6106 Roosevelt Way N.W., 206-527-7019;, in 2004. And in February, he opened Feierabend (422 Yale Ave. N., Seattle; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily; 206-340-2528; ages 21 and older) — which, loosely translated, means "quitting time."

Here, as elsewhere, he's offering "German Food, Bier and Tradition" — and spirits, too. Those traditions include the seating arrangement: a mix of barstools and benches perched under broad wooden tables wearing plaques that urge, "As in Germany, share tables with those you do not know. Prost!"

Next time I'll do just that, but seated alone at a counter fronting the open kitchen, in a room painted like strong German mustard, I had plenty of opportunity to check out the eats. I did so while lifting one of 18 German biers on tap, offered in third-liter, half-liter and full-liter pours, in a variety of appropriate German glassware.

Ryan Sullivan and his cooks knock out plenty of "vorspeise" (small plates), including landjaeger mit brot (cured sausages with dark bread, $5) and gewertzed gerken (fried pickles, $4). And those with heartier appetites might try bratwurst mit sauerkraut ($8), jagerschnitzel mit spatzle ($13) and my favorite, wiener schnitzel mit pommes frites ($12): translated here as pounded pork cutlet, breaded, fried and served up with red cabbage, slender fries and curry ketchup. Loved that! The kitchen's open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily, though the bar continues to pour till 1 a.m. or later.

From Bellevue: More to Love

When I want Russian food that tastes like my great-grandmother's, I've been known to drive to Bellevue for smoked fish, sour tomatoes, stuffed cabbage and other deli goods to-go. The place? From Russia With Love (1424 156th Ave. N.E.; 425-603-0701; Once there, I'm bound to stay for a bowl of borscht and a "nice" hot plateful of handmade pelmeny eaten at one of too few cafe tables.

But late last month, owner Sergey Dunayev gave me another reason to make the trip. He opened a second venture, From Russia With Love European Deli, at Crossroads Mall (15600 N.E. Eighth St., #K-16; 425-401-2093). Doing so has allowed him to divvy deli from cafe, turning the tiny original (open 11 a.m-8 p.m. daily) into a full-fledged noshery with prepared foods to eat in or take out. Meanwhile, over at the mall, his big Euro-deli, open 9 a.m.-9 p.m. daily, is the place for those who like to roam the aisles in search of Eastern European specialty foods.

Dunayev says he has plans to upgrade the original — now devoid of its crowded shelves, and home to more cafe tables — but that will have to wait till things calm down at Crossroads, where you can't dine in, but there's plenty to take out.

Shirini darid? (Got sweets?)

With thousands of tea-drinking, sweets-loving Iranians living in Greater Seattle, you'd think there'd be more than one bakery to keep them in shirini (Iranian sweets). Alas, there's only one: Minoo Bakery (12518 Lake City Way N.E., Seattle; 206-306-2229), whose lack of major signage makes this Lake City bakery, open since September, easy to miss. Pssst: It's in the mixed-use complex just off the northeast corner of 125th and Lake City Way.

Having occasionally turned my kitchen into a great big mess frying my favorite Iranian treat — zoulbia — I'm thrilled to know I can come to Minoo and (No muss, No fuss!) buy as many of these honey- and rosewater-kissed fritters as I care to eat. Here, owner Ezzat Ghaderi offers cases filled with pastries, cookies and other tea-time tasties.

Just last week I scored a boxful of his zoulbia, plus flaky pistachio-laden baklava and a mix of nan-e nokhodchi (chickpea cookies) among other sweets sold by the pound ($5.99-$6.99). Ten bucks bought more than my sweetest tooth could handle, but I sure made friends sharing these around the office! Open 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays and 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sundays.

Customers won't go begging for a crust

As mentioned in last week's column, La Panzanella has closed its original café and bakeshop in Capitol Hill, and the bakery continues to produce its signature croccantini and La Panzanella breads. A company spokeswoman, concerned that some readers may have misinterpreted what I wrote, wants me to reassure said readers that their favorite bread is still available.

So, listen up:

La Panzanella's breads, now being baked at Golden Crown Bakery, a Lynnwood-area facility equipped with brick-lined wood-fired ovens, are available at local supermarkets and specialty stores (among them PCC, Whole Foods, Rainbow Grocery and DeLaurenti).

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or

Copyright © 2006 The Seattle Times Company



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