Architecture tours help us learn about where we live and who we are
Seattle Architecture Foundation offers a wide variety of guided walking tours to connect us with the city we live in. New offerings reach beyond downtown and even to the Eastside.
Special to The Seattle Times
If You Go
Touring the town Seattle Architecture Foundation (SAF) offers more than 200 tours every year. Offices are on the third floor of the Rainier Square Atrium, 1333 Fifth Ave., Seattle. Open Monday-Friday ?8 a.m.-5 p.m., and Saturday (on tour days) 9 a.m.-1 p.m., with most of the regular, weekly tours beginning at 10 a.m. Most tours are $15 in advance, $20 day of the tour. Reservations are encouraged.
The foundation office houses a permanent, free exhibit, “Blueprints: 100 years of Seattle Architecture.”
The foundation also publishes a self-guided tour book, “Seattle Architecture: A Walking Guide to Downtown,” by Maureen Elenga ($20).
The foundation offers at least one two-hour tour every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, excluding major holidays. Some tours are offered much more frequently than others; check the Web site or call for dates, times and starting locations. Tour titles include:
“Greatest Hits: Chart Toppers and Heart-Stoppers,” featured in this story.
“Architecture 101: Windows on Seattle Style,” looking at design elements of downtown buildings.
“Art + Architecture: Let the Streets Be Your Museum!” looks at public art.
“Art Deco: Diamonds and Gold,” featuring the Exchange Building, Seattle Tower and other gems from the 1920s.
“Design Details: Lions, Griffins and Walruses, Oh My!” looks at downtown building ornamentation, including the Smith Tower’s Chinese Room.
“Historic Skyscrapers: Concrete, Steel, Glass and Egos” looks upward around downtown, including King Street Station.
“Modern Skyscrapers: What’s New?” takes in the new Federal Courthouse and other recent additions.
“Harvard Belmont District: The Rich Life on Capitol Hill” visits Seattle’s only residential Landmark District.
“International District: Diversity Defined” looks at this fascinating city within the city and how design choices maintain identity.
“Pike/Pine: Cars, Bars and Dead Rock Stars” looks at an evolving district of Capitol Hill.
See the SAF Web site, seattlearchitecture.org, or call 206-667-9184.
New tours for 2010
Some of Seattle Architecture Foundation’s new offerings for this year:
Special event tours
These bring together experts to lead discussions and tours. One of the most timely is “Central Waterfront: Shifting Tides at Seattle’s Front Door.” Various experts speculate on the opportunities and challenges of the waterfront once the Alaskan Way Viaduct goes away. Lead guide is Cristina Bump, architectural designer at Mithun architects, who has done research on sea walls in Sydney and Melbourne, Australia, and Vancouver, B.C. Tour is Jan. 30, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.; $25 in advance or $30 day of tour. Tour begins in Pioneer Square at the corner of First Avenue and Yesler Way.
Offered four times this year is “Gay Pioneer Square: Coming Out from Underground,” in which guides explain the history of Pioneer Square architecture and how the neighborhood came to be a gathering place for the gay community. Tours are Jan. 23, April 24, June 12 and Aug. 7, 10 a.m.-noon; $15 in advance or $20 day of tour. Tour begins in Pioneer Square at the corner of Third Avenue South and South Washington Street.
“Bellevue: 2.0” is the foundation’s first regular Eastside offering, with local experts looking at Bellevue’s phenomenal expansion and the new construction technology that makes the growth spurt possible. May 15, July 17, Sept. 18, Nov. 20, 10 a.m.-noon; $15 in advance or $20 day of tour. Tour begins in Bellevue Square mall, at the Center Court information desk.
Also debuting are tours of the new green, high-tech South Lake Union district and the old South Lake Union Cascade neighborhood. These tours will alternate on the first Saturdays of each month starting in February. 10 a.m.-noon; $15 in advance or $20 day of tour. Tour begins at the corner of Westlake Avenue and Denny Way (at the traffic island in front of the Enso building).
We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.
— T.S. Eliot
Who knew that situational awareness of your own backyard could be so entertaining? Taking part in "Greatest Hits: Chart-toppers and Heart Stoppers," one of many guided tours offered by the Seattle Architecture Foundation, I learned to stand still and just look.
When you do that, when you take time to notice the biography of buildings, they tell stories. Those giant terra-cotta faces that adorn Seattle's 1910 Cobb Building? They're not based on a Northwestern motif as you might expect but are Iroquois in origin. That pyramid atop Smith Tower? It's inhabited. And a river runs through City Hall.
The foundation offers these nuggets and more with 270 tours a year — some repeated frequently, others presented rarely, and new tours being added regularly, expanding beyond the downtown core to new neighborhoods and even the Eastside. It adds up to a rich resource of knowledge about where we live.
Such volume is possible because of 300 devoted volunteers, like Dr. Kavita Shah, a 33-year-old research scientist.
"I've always been interested in the arts and I love architecture," she said. A tour-guide-in-training, Shah enjoys what happens when buildings go from being a backdrop to a living landscape. "People see their surroundings in a different way than they did before," she said. "They get to know more about the history of buildings, and the culture that made them. Then they start to care, because they think of the people who came before us."
One of the buildings on the Greatest Hits tour is the stately 1904 Rainier Club (on Fourth Avenue between Marion and Columbia streets), a somewhat fusty old brick structure surrounded by sparkling glass skyscrapers. Its design is based on the English manor house — no accident at a time when Seattle was becoming class conscious, when the young city finally had a social ladder to climb. Look for the telltale signs of an addition that was built in 1928-29, evidenced by a faint line of newer brick that begins above the Fourth Avenue entrance.
Also on the tour is Seattle's love-it or hate-it downtown library (between Fourth and Fifth avenues and Spring and Madison streets). Seeing it for the first time, a man in our group was diplomatic. "Well," he nodded, looking around, "it's spacious."
On the main floor is a vast greenish carpet that I thought was fairly ugly. But tour guide Joe Rettenmaier advised withholding judgment until we were above it looking down. Later, from the fourth-floor balcony, I was surprised to see what had appeared to be a fuzzy green design come into sharp focus; this custom-made carpet is composed of plant photographs. Viewed from on high, it was suddenly impressive.
Just south of the library, we observed the recently spared First United Methodist Church (Fifth Avenue and Madison Street), a Beaux-Arts-style structure built in 1910 by early Seattle pioneers. The domed church was saved from certain destruction at the last moment by a local developer. While a skyscraper goes up around it, the sanctuary is now the Daniels Recital Hall, a music venue.
Green city hall
Our group also strolled through Seattle City Hall (between Fourth and Fifth avenues, James and Cherry streets), a testament to green construction. There's a cistern up top to collect rain, with the water used throughout the building, and special windows that allow more light in. For aesthetics, a river of water cuts right through the lobby, burbling down to an infinity pool and fountains.
From a City Hall plaza, we next examined the Smith Tower (Second Avenue and Yesler Way). This venerable white "skyscraper," Seattle's first, was built from 1910 to 1914, ultra modern for its time. The all-metal construction has a white terra-cotta skin, topped by a pyramid that once disguised a 10,000-gallon water tank, but now — incredibly — houses an apartment that is home to a family with two children. They enjoy a long-term lease, fantastic views, and no neighbors. They come and go in a truly unique way, via the largest collection of manually operated elevators in the United States, powered by the original engines.
At tour's end, we viewed our surroundings with fresh eyes. Bob Hollowell, 61, a medical librarian by trade, has lived in Seattle for more than 20 years but, in many ways, he's learning to see it for the first time. "I lost my job last February, and after the shock wore off, I decided I had time to look around," he said. "I realized that when you're on vacation, in Paris or Rome, that's what you do, look around. I just thought, I can do the same thing right here."
Connie McDougall is a Seattle-based freelance writer.