Advertising

The Seattle Times Company

NWjobs | NWautos | NWhomes | NWsource | Free Classifieds | seattletimes.com

Travel / Outdoors


Our network sites seattletimes.com | Advanced

Originally published June 2, 2008 at 12:00 AM | Page modified June 2, 2008 at 4:02 PM

Print

Remembering the D-Day dead at an American cemetery in France

American soldiers are honored at cemetery in Normandy, France overlooking Omaha Beach, where thousands died in World War II's D-Day invasion

The Dallas Morning News

Locating grave sites

• The American Battle Monuments Commission is responsible for 24 "permanent American burial grounds" overseas. Most of the cemeteries were created for war dead from World War I and World War II. Information: www.abmc.gov/cemeteries/cemeteries.php.

• For a complete list of the 25 memorials, monuments and markers that the commission maintains, including three in the U.S., go to www.abmc.gov/memorials/memorials.php. • The commission's home page (www.abmc.gov/) includes information on all of its cemeteries and memorials and services available to next of kin. Search by name for the burial locations of U.S. service members overseas, or the names memorialized on "Tablets of the Missing," at

www.abmc.gov/wardead/index.php.

• The U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs is responsible for 125 national cemeteries in 39 states and Puerto Rico. For information on these and other locations where veterans are buried in the U.S., go to www.cem.va.gov.

• The VA also has an online Nationwide Gravesite Locator that permits searches in federally administered cemeteries and in private cemeteries when the grave is marked with a government grave marker. Go to http://gravelocator.cem.va.gov/j2ee/servlet/NGL_v1.

Associated Press

IF YOU GO

If you go

Getting there

Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial overlooks Omaha Beach, where Allied forces suffered the heaviest casualties during the D-Day invasion June 6, 1944. It's on the site of the first American cemetery on European soil in World War II, established on June 7, 1944.

By car, it's about 170 miles west of Paris, near St. Laurent-sur-Mer. The American Battle Monuments Commission offers driving instructions at www.abmc.gov/cemeteries/cemeteries/no.php. Traveling by train to Bayeux or Caen, and then renting a car, may be easier. Taxi and tour bus services also are available.

What's there

The cemetery, which attracts more than a million visitors every year, is the resting place of more than 9,300 service members. Most were killed during the D-Day landings and the Normandy campaign. The names of more than 1,500 service members who were declared missing are inscribed in stone in the Garden of the Missing. Brig. Gen. Theodore Roosevelt, the eldest son of President Teddy Roosevelt and a Medal of Honor recipient, is buried there.

The movie "Saving Private Ryan" was partly inspired by four brothers from New York who served in the military, two of whom — 2nd Lt. Preston Niland and Tech. Sgt. Robert Niland — are buried side by side at the Normandy cemetery.

Hours

Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Closed Dec. 25 and Jan. 1. Open on most French holidays.

Normandy information

Normandy tourism: www.normandy-tourism.org

(click on the British flag for English language).

COLLEVILLE-SUR-MER, France — Above a sand and shingle beach, where unspeakable carnage once played out, American soldiers have taken the high ground for all eternity.

Omaha Beach was the landing beach in France where Allied forces suffered the heaviest casualties on D-Day, as they began to liberate Western Europe from Nazi occupation in World War II. And many soldiers interred at the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial died on that beach or before they reached it.

Today, it's hard to imagine the chaos, anguish, death, fear and valor on June 6, 1944, when even the terrain — steep bluffs overlooking the beach — opposed the landing.

In appearance, Omaha Beach is much like other parts of France's Normandy coastline, rugged, sometimes storm-lashed, tranquil in fair weather. Its smells and sounds are of the sea, not war.

A visit to the Normandy American Cemetery, however, brings into focus the scope of the D-Day invasion and the sacrifice.

Row upon row of marble crosses and Stars of David are the defining features of the cemetery. They mark the graves of 9,387 service members. Most were killed during the Normandy campaign that began on D-Day.

In the cemetery's Garden of the Missing, the names of 1,557 service members whose remains were not recovered are engraved on stone tablets.

Visitors sometimes spend hours walking amid the headstones. They linger inside a colonnaded memorial where maps engraved in stone, and accompanying text, detail the progress of Allied forces from the D-Day beaches to the end of the war. They pause near the reflecting pool.

The staff at the visitor's center provides information on the cemetery and local history. Next of kin get special treatment, including help finding where a family member is interred and an escort to the grave site.

But, long before leaving home, anyone planning to visit the grave of a relative should use the services offered by the American Battle Monuments Commission, which is responsible for 24 military cemeteries on foreign soil. Commission staff will provide information about travel routes and accommodations. Immediate family can obtain letters authorizing fee-free passports.

The commission's online databases can be searched by name for an exact grave site. Staff also can generate a list of service members buried at a specific cemetery who entered military service from the same state. What brings family members to the Normandy cemetery is apparent: They come to honor loved ones. And, perhaps, seeing them at rest in such a tranquil setting is a comfort.

More than a million visitors come to the Normandy cemetery each year, with next of kin being only a small percentage. Walking through the carefully tended grounds, you'll hear many languages. French citizens turn out in the hundreds of thousands each year to pay their respects.

For many American tourists, visiting the Normandy cemetery is something akin to a pilgrimage.

"Just because you do not have a family member there does not mean you don't have a connection," said Jon Bennett, who teaches at St. John's Northwestern Military Academy in Wisconsin. "We're here today because of all these soldiers who put their lives on the line for us to live in a democracy."

Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company

More Travel headlines...

Print      Share:    Digg     Newsvine

advertising

NEW - 8:12 AM
Rick Steves' Europe: Helsinki and Tallinn: Baltic Sisters

NEW - 8:00 AM
More extensive TSA searches in Sea-Tac Airport rattle some travelers

Winter play in the French Alps — without skiing

Carnival group hit by fire cheered in Rio parade

United cuts 2011 growth and Southwest raises fares

Advertising

Video

Marketplace

Advertising