I HAD VISITED Chogali village so often, in stray moments, it sometimes
seemed I never left. In reality, almost a year had passed since
my husband and I volunteered in medical clinics along the Thai-Burma
border.
We took many snapshots, but I didn't need them to travel back
-- down the rutted elephant trail, across the steppingstones in
the stream, past the black pig in the bamboo pen, along the path
lined with white star flowers that smell like magic.
This is how I liked to remember Chogali, as a place of little
girls and orchids, of peace and hope.
Actually, Chogali was -- and is -- in the middle of a war.
On one side is a military dictatorship that in the past 35 years
has killed, tortured and displaced millions. On the other are
ethnic tribes who want autonomy and dissidents who want democracy.
The military is winning. Burma's people have lost just about everything
that makes life decent. And every year, things get worse.
In this country of chaos, Chogali was an oasis. The village was
nurtured by a remarkable woman known along the border as "Dr.
Cynthia." She ran a clinic there, took in orphans and trained
medics to care for hill-tribe people who had no other access to
modern health care.
That such a gentle community could exist in the middle of war
became my antidote to the world's horrors.
After we came home to Seattle last summer, I kept returning, in
my mind, to Chogali. To escape from the blur of news of war, of
genocide, of rape, of hunger and hate . . . .
I'd hear a snippet, read a headline, then drift away to be with
the little orchid girls, mixing mud and rain in coconut shells
-- playing pretend within a game of pretend.
Then Chogali fell.
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